He went up Slimline from bolt to bolt, doing the moves by the skin of the
north face denali jackets.
He tried to imitate what it would be like to clip the second draw on
the lead, but he couldn’t actually hang on to the left hand 2 finger
pocket with 1 hand, meaning he couldn’t actually clip the rope on the
lead! James came down and declared he wasn’t even doing to bother with
having a redpoint attempt. I wasn’t willing to accept this and decided I
had to step up to the plate, not in the role of a climber, but in the
role of Mr Motivator. I’m a firm believer in P.M.A. (positive mental
attitude) and it’s power to make the impossible possible. I’ve known
James for a long time, since the beginning of both our climbing careers
north face jacket,
so I’ve got a major advantage when it comes to trying to motivate him
and help him to get the best from himself. I told him that his
performance was simply not acceptable and neither was his attitude. I
knew he could do this route and all I needed to do was make him believe
it too. If I could do that I knew he could deliver the goods on the
sharp end. After a pep talk or two I told him that he needed to have a
redpoint go to warm up again then have another go afterwards to actually
send it. He eventually conceded and dug deep within his soul to find
the energy to tie on. He set off, made it to the second clip with the
clip he hadn’t been able to do on the dog, but psyche powered him up and
he clipped it without a problem. He cruised the next few moves getting
to the final undercut before falling off due to his power reserves
hitting zero! It was an unbelievably good attempt,
north face denali,going
from zero to hero just by using a bit of PMA. I knew that he had it in
him to do this route and by trying super hard he’d proved it to himself.
It was so great that it inspired Gaz to get back on the route, where he
managed to do the moves by utilizing his back 2 in all of the pockets
due to his sausage fingers being way too fat. He was able to do the
moves like this but it required him to really squeeze his fingers in and
that was proving difficult on the redpoint. By now both Gaz and James
were really getting tired.
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